Breguet Just Killed It - Breguet Type XX for OnlyWatch 2019

Breguet just unveiled their unique piece for OnlyWatch 2019, an organization which auctions off watches to support research on treatments for muscular dystrophy. Not only does it support a great cause, for brands have really come up with something special for this occasion. Like the name entails, these are UNIQUE PIECES ONLY.

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Fair Use - breguet.com

Breguet launched a gorgeous Type XX for OnlyWatch this year. I am at a loss for words as to the beauty of this timepiece. It harkens back to the original Type XX’s built for the French Air-force. Fortunately, Breguet made very little use of faux patination on this piece, merely a cream color that complements the brown dial. I think it becomes faux patina when you get to the “roasted marshmallow stage.” The finely ribbed bezel helps maintain the luxurious aura around all of Breguet’s timepieces.

What surprises me most about this watch is the fact that Breguet would make this kind of watch whatsoever. Normally, Breguet wants you to fantasize about Abraham-Louis Breguet, not the semi-defunct company of the twentieth century. I never believed that this part of the company’s history would be at the forefront of their marketing, especially since OnlyWatch is a huge PR opportunity. Sure, the Type XX is in regular production. However, the modern incarnation is far from the original.

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From reading responses to this release, the overall consensus is that this needs to be a regular production piece. There was a wave of disappointment that only one collector could obtain this watch. Despite this, many overlooked a very important detail. This watch isn’t just vintage-inspired, but it uses a vintage caliber as well. It houses the Valjoux 235, a variant of the renown Valjoux 222. This fact deems it impossible to produce a production run, as new old stock movements are difficult to come by.

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Fair Use - breguet.com

I believe that Breguet will produce a regular production run of this watch with a modern Breguet movement, perhaps replacing the current Type XX’s. The current models, especially the XXI and XXII, appear outdated and likely sell poorly. They also feature dated Lemania movements. Perhaps the demand or general praise for the OnlyWatch version will give Breguet an indication of future performance. I think Breguet is leading with the OnlyWatch model to test the waters.

Furthermore, this gives Breguet the opportunity to thrust its way into the sports-watch arena after the Breguet Marine’s utter disaster. Also, the brown dial shows that the industry is moving away from overused colors like blue. White and black dials are extremely common, but it doubtful that they will lose popularity. Truly, this watch is a gigantic opportunity for Breguet to make a resurgence in today’s market.